I decided to try to make this tidy/doily from Godey’s Lady’s Book, September 1860. It was a real challenge but ended up being easier than I thought it would be. That’s after trying and retrying many times and changing the yarn! Anyway here is a pic. Click the picture to link to the pattern at a new site, GodeysLadysBook.com
Astarte, in the Qustions and Answers section of an 1884 magazine, Little Folks A Magazine for the Young,
sends the following directions, in answer to W. M.’s question as to
how to make a pair of baby’s woollen shoes, suitable for a bazaar:—
- “One ounce of white Berlin wool.
- A chain of thirty-four stitches;
- double-crochet into this for thirty rows, taking the back stitch, so as to form a rib.
- Then crochet fifteen stitches, turn and go back to end of row,
- then go back again for fourteen stitches, and so on, taking one less each time until there are only seven left.
- This has to be done on both sides of the leg, so as to form the foot.
- Break off the wool, fasten it on at the top of the leg, then crochet down as far as the instep,
- and back again, doing one less each time till there are only two stitches left.
- Then down as far as the instep do an edging of treble crochet,
- then work another edging (button-hole stitch) all round the edging of flourishing thread.
- Then join the foot loosely down the middle, and sew up the leg so that the part increased flaps over.
- For the sole of foot make a chain of fourteen stitches, work it up and down till there are thirteen ribs;
- in the last two rows a stitch must be left out at each corner.
- Sew the sole on to the foot and the boot is finished.”
Crochet guipure lace (fig. 459).—This charming little lace makes a very good substitute for real guipure. It can be made on a row of trebles, just as well as on point lace braid, or on a mignardise, after you have raised the picots of it by single and chain stitches.
6 plain *, 9 chain, leave an interval equalling in length 6 bars of the point lace braid used in our pattern; in the braid: 6 plain stitches, very close together, 8 chain, 1 single on the 7th of the 9 chain, 10 chain, 1 single on the 3d of the 9 chain, 8 chain, 1 plain close to the first of the first 6 plain.
1st scallop—7 plain, 5 chain, join to the 4th chain; on the 5th chain: 6 plain; on the 8th chain: 3 plain.
2nd scallop—on the 10 chain: 7 plain, 5 chain, join to the 4th chain = on the 5 chain: 6 plain = on the 10 chain, 5 plain, 5 chain, join to the 4th chain, 6 plain, 5 chain, join to the 4th chain, 6 chain, 1 plain on the 10th chain.
3rd scallop—like the first, then repeat from *.
In this first round you make: 1 chain, 1 half-treble, 12 trebles *, 1 half-treble, 1 chain, 1 single on the 4th chain; 3 chain, 1 single on the braid, far enough from the 1st chain for the rounds not to overlap each other. Then 10 chain, 1 single on the 4th chain, 1 single, 1 half-treble, 4 trebles, join to the first round between the 8th and 9th trebles, 8 trebles and repeat from *. For the footing: 1 treble, 1 chain, miss a few threads of the edge of the braid, 1 treble.
In the next row, you use the twist and the braid together, as follows—with the twist = 1 chain stitch, put the needle into the first stitch of the foundation chain, take up the braid, draw it through, turn the twist round the needle, draw it through the braid and the chain stitch. To make the braid loops longer, they may be made over a wooden ruler. To the two rows of braid stitches, represented in the pattern, you may add as many other rows as you please. On the fringed side make: 4 plain, 3 chain, draw out one very long loop and fasten into it a cluster of lengths of braid from 10 to 12 c/m. long, and draw the loop tightly round it to secure the tassel; 3 plain on the chain stitches. Repeat from *.