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A Lesson in Crochet Stitches

1. A Lesson in Crochet

(these directions are from the book, Handbook of Wool Knitting and Crochet, 1918, and are a useful resource for the patterns posted here from the book.)

The stitches and terms given herewith are such as are in general use, and were taught the writer by an English teacher of crocheting, herself a professional in the art. In some periodicals and books, the real slip-stitch is omitted, and the single is called slip-stitch; the double is called single, the treble is called double, the double treble is called treble, and so on.

There are different ways of holding the crochet-needle and carrying the thread, and many consider one way as good as another unless, as is usually the case, one’s own method is thought a little the best. The following instructions were given by the English teacher in question, and are those commonly accepted: Hold the needle in the right hand very much as you hold a pen when writing, letting the handle extend between the forefinger and thumb, which rest on and hold the needle. Hold nothing but the latter in the right hand, not allowing the fingers of that hand to so much as rest on the work. Hold work with thumb and second finger of left hand, letting the thread pass over the forefinger, slightly raised, or held up from the work, under the second, over the third and under the little finger. These instructions are especially good for using yarns, when it is desirable to keep the work as soft and fluffy as possible.

Figure 1. The Chain-StitchFigure 1. The Chain-Stitch

The chain. Figure 1. Make a loop of thread around the needle, take up the thread and draw through this loop (that is, push the hook under the thread that passes over the forefinger, draw it back, catching the thread, and pull this through the loop on the needle), forming a new stitch or loop, take up the thread and draw through this, and so continue until the chain is of the length required, tightening each loop as drawn through, so that all will be of uniform size and smoothness. After a little practise one does this without thought. When abbreviations are used, that for chain is ch.

The slip-stitch is properly a close joining stitch: Drop the stitch on the needle, insert hook through the stitch of work to which you wish to join, take up the dropped stitch and pull through, thus making a close fastening. This stitch is sometimes used to “slip” along certain portions of the work, from one to another point, but single crochet is more often employed for this. The abbreviation is sl-st.

Figure 2. Single CrochetFigure 2. Single Crochet

Single crochet
Figure 2, frequently called slip-stitch, (and sometimes mitten-stitch) is made thus: Having a stitch on needle, insert hook in work, take up the thread and draw it through the work and the stitch on the needle at the same time. The abbreviation is s c.

Figure 3. Double CrochetFigure 3. Double Crochet

Double crochet.
Figure 3. Having a stitch on needle, insert hook in work, take up thread and draw through, giving you two stitches on the needle; take up thread and draw through the two stitches. The abbreviation is d c. There are many variations of the double-crochet stitch; the slipper-stitch, or ribbed stitch, is formed by taking up the back horizontal loop or vein of each stitch in preceding row. A quite different effect is given when the hook is inserted under both loops.

Figure 4. Treble CrochetFigure 4. Treble Crochet

Treble crochet.
Figure 4. Having a stitch on the needle, take up the thread as if to make a stitch, insert hook in work, take up thread and draw through, making three stitches or loops on the needle; * take up thread and draw through two, again and draw through two. The abbreviation of treble crochet, is t c. It will be noted that the single crochet has one “draw,” the double two, and the treble three, from which these stitches take their names.

Figure 5. Half-Treble CrochetFigure 5. Half-Treble Crochet

Half-treble or short-treble crochet. Like treble to *; then take up thread and draw through all three stitches at once.

Figure 6. Double-Treble CrochetFigure 6. Double-Treble Crochet

Double-treble crochet.
Figure 6. Having a stitch on the needle, take up the thread twice, or put it twice over the needle, insert hook in work, take up thread and draw through, making four stitches to be worked off; (take up thread and draw through two) three times. The abbreviation of double-treble crochet is d t c.

Figure 7. Triple-Treble CrochetFigure 7. Triple-Treble Crochet

Triple-treble crochet.
Figure 7. Take up thread three times, insert hook in work, take up thread and draw through, making five stitches on needle; work these off two at a time, as in double treble. The abbreviation is t t c.

One sometimes has occasion to use other extra-long stitches, such as quadruple crochet (over four times before insertion of hook in work), quintuple crochet (over five times), and so on, which are worked off two at a time, exactly as in treble or double treble. In turning, one chain-stitch corresponds to a double, two chain-stitches to a half or short treble, three chain to a treble, four to a double treble, five to a triple treble, and so on, adding one chain for each extra “draw.”

Parentheses ( ) and asterisks or stars * * are used to prevent the necessity of repetition and save space. They indicate repeats of like directions. Thus: (Chain 3, miss 3, 1 treble in next) three times is equivalent to chain 3, miss 3, 1 treble in next, chain 3, miss 3, 1 treble in next, chain 3, miss 3, 1 treble in next; or to * chain 3, miss 3, 1 treble in next, repeat from * twice.

The worker should be careful in the selection of a hook. It should be well made and smooth, and of a size to carry the wool smoothly, without catching in and roughening it. If too large, on the other hand, the work is apt to be sleazy. Needles that have been used for some time work more easily than new ones. If all makes of crochet-needles were numbered in the same way the size might be easily designated; but it happens that no two manufacturers use like numbers for the same sizes, hence the rule given is the best that can be.

Handbook of Wool Knitting and Crochet, 1918

Front Cover

Published by
Needlecraft Publishing Company
Augusta, Maine
1918

 

In the upcoming weeks, I will post ALL of the crochet instructions and patterns from this book:

 

  1. A Lesson in Crochet Stitches (This is a good reference for the patterns below:)

  2. Lady’s Crochet Jacket

  3. Lady’s Tam-’o-Shanter

  4. Lady’s Sleeveless Jacket or Hug me tight

  5. Child’s Coat Sweater

  6. Child’s Jacket

  7. Girl’s Jacket

  8. Baby’s Jacket

  9. Baby’s Shoes

  10. Baby Booties - (a) Girl’s (b) Boy’s

  11. Ribbed House Slippers (Ladies)

  12. Sweater and Cap for a doll

  13. Child’s Cap (3 years or older) in Bean Stitch

  14. Child’s Hood (with rosette)

  15. Child’s Hood in Wedge Stitch

  16. Child’s (girl 10-14 yrs old) Toque (cap) in Wedge Stitch

Vintage Crocheted Under Bodice

propertyofcrochethubdotcomcrochetedunderbodice.jpg 
propertyofcrochethubdotcomcrochetunderbodice2.jpg

propertyofcrochethubdotcomcrochetunderbodice2.jpg
This pattern is in the public domain.

Crochet Stitches

Vintage Raised Rose Crochet Collar

All care has been given to present this information in the original form. CrochetHub is not responsible for errors.

RAISED ROSE CROCHET COLLAR.

MATERIALS..—Brooks’ Great Exhibition Prize Goat’s-head Crochet Thread, No. 40, and Penelope Crochet Hook, No. 5.

This collar is made in portions, and joined together with needle and thread, or worked together with one plain at the option of the worker.

TO FORM THE ROSE.—Make a chain of 8 loops, plain 1, to form a round, fasten off.

RAISED ROSE CROCHET COLLAR.

RAISED ROSE CROCHET COLLAR.

2nd: Work 1 treble, ch. 3, repeat round, plain 1, and fasten off; you should have seven treble in the round.

3rd: Plain 1 at the top of the 1 treble of last round, work 8 treble in the 3 ch. of last round, plain 1 at the top of the next 1 treble of last round, repeat in the same 1 treble all round, fasten off.

4th: Work 1 treble at the top of the 1 plain of last round, chain 6, repeat round, plain 1 at the top of the 1 treble to form the round, fasten off.

5th: Plain 1 at the top of the 1 treble of last round, work 8 treble in the 6 ch. of last round, plain 1 at the top of the next 1 treble of last round, repeat in the same loop as before, repeat round, fasten off.

6th: Work 1 treble at the top of the 1 plain of last round, ch. 9, repeat round, plain 1, fasten off.

7th: Plain 1 at the top of the 1 treble of last round, work 10 treble in the 9 ch. of last round, plain 1 at the top of the next 1 treble of last round, repeat in the same loop as before all round.

8th: Work 1 treble at the top of the 1 plain of last round, ch. 12, repeat round, plain 1, fasten off.

9th: Plain 1 at the top of the 1 treble of last round, work 13 treble in the 12 ch. of last round, plain 1 in the 1 treble of last round, repeat round.

10th: Ch. 5, miss 2, plain 1, repeat round each fold of the rose.

11th: Ch. 5, plain 1 in the centre of the 5 ch. of last round, repeat round; fasten off, which completes the rose; you require 7 of these flowers to form the collar, and 6 of the following:—

LARGE ROUNDS.—Make a round loop, the size of this O, and work 30 treble in the round loop.

2nd round: Ch. 19, miss 5, plain 1, repeat round.

3rd: Work double crochet in each loop all round.

4th: Ch. 5, miss 2, plain 1, repeat round.

5th: Ch. 5, plain 1 in the centre of the 5 ch. of last round, repeat round.

6th: Ch. 4, plain 1 in the centre of the 5 ch. of last round, repeat round.

7th: Ch. 3, plain 1 in the centre of the 4 ch. of last round, repeat round, fasten off, which completes the round; you then work 74 of the following:—

SMALL ROUNDS.—Make a round loop, the size of this O, and work 21 double in the round loop.

2nd round: Ch., 9, miss 2, plain 1; repeat round; you should have 7 lots of the 9 chain in the round.

3rd: d.c. in each loop all round, which completes the round; you now require 14 of the following:—

PATTERN FOR LEAF.—Make a ch. of 12 loops, turn back, and work the 12 loops d.c.

2nd round: Ch. 3, miss 2, work two treble in 1 loop, repeat to the end, and in the end loop ch. 3, work 2 treble, work the other side the same, with the treble opposite, the treble and 3 ch. at the end, plain 1 in the end loop, fasten off.

3rd: Plain 1 in the centre of the first 3 ch. of last round, ch. 3, work 1 treble at the top of the first treble of last round, ch. 2, work 1 treble at the top of the next treble of last round; you repeat all round the leaf with 3 ch., opposite the 3 ch. of last round, and 2 treble at the top of the 2 treble of last round, with 2 ch. between them, working both sides to correspond, turn back.

4th: Ch. 4 and plain 1 in each lot of the chain of last round, fasten off, which completes the leaf; you then work a stalk to each leaf as follows: ch. 5, work 1 treble in the centre of the chain round between the edge and the centre, work 1 treble on the other side, the same turn back, and work the 5 chains plain, fasten off, which completes the stalk; after working the number of each portion required and joining them together, as shown in the illustration, you work a band for the neck-part of the collar as follows:—

Work a few plain at the end, then ch. 10, and work 1 treble where it requires a treble, and a double where it requires a double, and a plain in the centre of the stalks and rounds as you see the stitches in the engraving, so as to make it lie to the shape of the neck.

2nd row: Ch. 2, miss 2, work 1 treble, repeat to the end, turn back.

3rd: Ch. 2, work 1 treble at the top of the treble of last row, repeat to the end, turn back.

4th: D.c., fasten off, which completes the collar.

Please do not post this information to another website. However, Please feel free to post a link to this page: http://crochethub.com/

Hairpin Fringes

 Hairpin fringes (figs. 453, 454, 455, 456).—Fig. 453 is made with a fork composed of one branch and 3 or 4 rulers, round which the thread is wound in succession, so as to form loops of different lengths. You may use for this, either a single very coarse thread, or else several fine ones, used together as one.

FIG. 453. HAIRPIN FRINGE WITH TASSELS. Fig. 453. Hairpin fringe with tassels.

The heading of the fringe is plain, and heavy tassels are fastened into the loops. The tassels are made as follows: take a thick skein of the same thread the fringe is made of, pass it through the loop, leaving just the length required for the tassel, at one end, thread a needle with the same thread and twist it round the skein, the right distance from the top to form the head of the tassel and then cut the ends even, at the bottom. As the loops are of different lengths, the tassels will hang in steps and the fuller and heavier they are, the handsomer the fringe will be.

Fig. 454 represents another pattern of fringe, the first part of which is made with the same fork as the preceding one. Instead however of winding the thread round the several prongs in succession, you pass it alternately round the two first and the fourth, thus making loops of two lengths only. Tassels of a length, suited to the purpose the fringe is intended for, depend from these loops and may be varied in the second row by balls made to issue from the middle, or by long meshes, which are made over the whole width of the fork and affixed to the loops.

FIG. 454. HAIRPIN FRINGE WITH TASSELS. Fig. 454. Hairpin fringe with tassels.
Materials:
Coton à tricoter D.M.C Nos. 6 to 16.

Colours: Écru and Jaune-Rouille 363, 368, or Gris-Tilleul 331 and Rouge-Cornouille 449 and 450, or three other shades.

Figs. 455 and 456 represent two pretty patterns of fringes made of écru cotton with a strong twist. These are very suitable for washing articles, as the cotton balls wash perfectly.

FIG. 455. HAIRPIN FRINGE WITH ONE LINE OF BALLS. Fig. 455. Hairpin fringe with one line of balls.

The loops in fig. 455 are all of one length and a ball hangs from every third. In the last chapter but one, a minute description is given of the way in which these balls are made. The heading of the loops is formed by a row of chain stitches, varying in number from four to six, according to the size of the cotton. The edge is ornamented with little picots. The fringe, in fig. 456, consists of three long and three short loops alternately, which causes, the balls that are made to depend from them, to form two parallel lines.

FIG. 456. HAIRPIN FRINGE WITH TWO LINES OF BALLS,  ONE ABOVE THE OTHER. Fig. 456. Hairpin fringe with two lines of balls, one above the other.
Materials
—For the crochet-work: Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C Nos. 3 to 10, or Fil à pointer D.M.C Nos. 10 to 30. For the balls: Coton à repriser D.M.C Nos. 8 to 16.

If you join the loops of the heading together, three and three, you will have to make enough chain stitches to cover the space that is to be filled.

The picots are made with 6 chain stitches, you put the needle back into the fifth stitch after closing the picot, make 1 chain, 2 plain, in the preceding row, 1 picot and so on.

Hairpin Crochet Lace

 Hairpin lace (fig. 452).—When, by making two half trebles in each loop, you have got the necessary length of hairpin crochet, join the loops two and two, by means of a coloured thread which makes a good contrast with the thread of which the hairpin crochet is made. Work 1 plain stitch joining 2 loops on the right, 2 chain, 1 plain joining the 2 loops on the left; then 2 chain and come back to the right, and so on, until you have taken up all the loops. This forms the zig-zag in the middle.

FIG. 452. HAIRPIN LACE. Fig. 452. Hairpin lace.
Materials
—For the hairpin work: Fil à pointer D.M.C Nos. 20 to 30, or Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C Nos. 3 to 10, white or écru. For the edge. Coton à tricoter D.M.C Nos. 16 to 30.
Colours: Rouge-Cardinal 347, or Jaune-Rouille 364, or Brun-Marron 406.

1st row—join 3 loops by: 1 plain, 5 chain.

2nd row—on the 5 chain stitches: 1 plain, 1 half-treble, 3 trebles, 1 picot, made with 5 chain (for the chain picots, see Chain Picot post), 1 half-treble, 1 plain. The footing of this lace is made like the one in fig.451 (Hairpin Insertion post).